We stopped at the Craters of the Moon, just one of many geothermal fields near Taupo / Rotorua.
Another stop was at the Huka Falls where 200’000 liters of water plunge down – per second.
Taupo
Waitomo Caves and Glowworms
The evening before we had glowworms for free (see previous article). Was it really a good idea to pay 160 NZD for another glowworm tour? YES!
Most people looking for glowworms in Waitomo end up doing the touristy boat ride in one of the caves. We heard it’s nice, but we found Glowing Adventures, a family business offering the off-the-beaten-track experience with small groups. Whereas small means just the two of us and Heath, our guide (pure luck). After dressing up with cave-pyjamas, helmet and boots we walked into the cave.
At multiple locations it was really narrow and it required a bit of acrobatics to get through narrow corridors and between stalagmites and stalactites. We also experienced absolute darkness (you can’t see your own hands before your eyes). Of course, the highlights were the glowworms.
Heath explained us their stages of life, how they catch their food and how and why they glow. We got wet, dirty and exhausted – but also very satisfied. Definitely another highlight on our journey.
Coming… 
Just one second… 
Close encounters 
Glowworms, not stars 
Growing stalagmite
Taranaki Falls and Glowworms
We just did a short morning hike (2h) to the Taranaki Falls before heading to Waitomo.
It was a hot day (30°C) and we waited on the campground for an evening adventure. On the Ruakuri Walk you can also see glowworms after sunset. Yep, we spotted them – it was like walking in a fairytale forest. And it was for free! 🙂
Passage through Mordor (Tongariro Crossing)
Grey sky, clouds and even drizzling rain. Not a very promising beginning of the day. But we knew the forecast and hoped for better weather on our much-awaited hike: Tongariro Alpine Crossing, according to several sources one of the best day-hikes in the world:
“Trek across a volcanic alpine landscape of dramatic contrasts – steaming vents, glacial valleys, ancient lava flows, alpine vegetation and vivid crater lakes, all with stunning views.”
A hike which also got a popularity boost after the screening of the Lord of the Rings trilogy, as the volcano Mount Ngauruhoe was used for Mount Doom of Mordor.
A shuttle bus took us to the start of the track and guess what? Sunshine! Ok, now it’s just 19.4km of hiking track, 1196m change of altitude and many other hikers with the same goal.
It’s difficult to describe this track better than DOC has done it already (see above). So from our side just the confirmation, that this hike should really be on your bucket list for New Zealand. Wandering over not-so-old lava flows, seeing the stunning colors, smelling the sulfur scents, hearing the steam vents and overlooking crater landscapes out of this world was just… wow!
It took us almost exactly 6 hours (incl. breaks) to reach the end of the track and the bus stop. Guess what? We just arrived on time for one of our shuttle (they run every hour) and it had just four seats left.
Starting point 
Mount Ruapehu
Lava formations 
“Mount Doom” 
Volcano lakes 
Recent eruption 
Before our slide down 
Volcano lake 
Great views 
North Crater
Forgotten World Highway
To fill our day we first visited Mount Taranaki again in the morning, but from a different entrance. He was hidden within clouds but we enjoyed the short walks nevertheless.
Stratford is the beginning (or end) of the Forgotten World Highway, an old scenic route with four “saddles”, a tunnel, little towns, a few detours and an unsealed section. A curvy (yep, New Zealand…) but enjoyable drive. A short walk to the Mount Damper Falls was a worthwhile break from driving.
Todays destination was Tongariro National Park Village where we booked the shuttle for tomorrow’s big hike.
Mount Taranaki
After a rather boring ride towards Egmont National Park everything changed to the good. The impressive (and active) stratovolcano Mount Taranaki (2518m) – often hidden within clouds – got rid of his disguise.
Mount Taranaki’s last major eruption was 1854, some scientists say the next one is overdue. From the visitor center we started to hike on the Wilkies Pools loop and extended it to the Waingongoro Hut. You walk within a “Goblin Forest” and we understood why. A forest from a fairytale, indeed.
Another highlight was the one-person-only swing bridge over a deep canyon, offering a view on Mount Taranaki.
Swing Bridge 
Mount Taranaki
Before returning to the campervan we also visited the Dawson Falls.
We spent the night in Stratford, where we enjoyed a “Glockenspiel” (play of bells, but they used the German expression, too) and a walk in the park.
(Not) Wellington
Leaving South Island. It was a nice ride on the Interislander ferry through the sounds of the South Islands to Wellington.
We could also spot (but not photograph) two dolphins along the way.
Unfortunately, the capital of New Zealand is not very campervan friendly. It was not easy to find a legal parking place for a van requiring a clearance of 3.2m. In the end we gave up and left the city without having seen much of it. Maybe next time. We drove till Paraparamau Beach and comforted us with a good early dinner.
South Island at a Glance
This is more or less what we did so far in New Zealand:
Picton
Just a short drive today to Picton, a small but important town, as the inter-island ferries drive from here to Wellington, North Island. So it’s our last day on the South Island, which we used to hike (again), doing the “Snout Track” along Queen Charlotte Sound to earn a good beer at “The Thirsty Pig”.
Looking for Hobbits
A quick stop for a short walk at Pelorus Bridge between Nelson and Havelock. Main reason: the scenery is part of the “barrel scene” in “The Hobbit 2” movie. Need to watch it again!
Peter Jackson and the dwarves 
Yep, same location! 
If we only had it since beginning!
We arrived early at Smith’s Farm, which is also a campground. But so far the most personal one. Muffins as welcome gifts, food for the animals which you can feed and tips for Picton. And the recommendation to look for glowworms in the evening, which we had to skip due to uncertain weather conditions.
